Passing through Stoke

I had read lots of bad things about mooring around Stoke and a couple of boaters I had talked to said the best thing was to come out of Harecastle Tunnel and don’t stop until you are through Stoke.

My mooring last night at Westport Lake was one of the few places I had heard was ok, and I have to say, apart from one small motorcycle haring along the towpath about 8pm, my stay was very good. I had pleasant views, TV signal on my small Necvox digital ariel, 4G wi-fi and a very reasonable phone signal, a quiet night with no disturbances, I would stop again if passing this way.

I decided to move again today, I was in two minds to be honest, but I sometimes get a bit bored if I don’t move and the weather looked lovely so at 9am I cast off in bright sunlight and headed through Longport,

Land of the Potteries, still plenty of evidence. A bottle kiln.

one of the towns on the outskirts of the city, and then Middleport and on to Etruria, I think you can tell a lot about an area by the people on the towpath, I have become accustomed to most people saying hello as you pass by, a few exceptions of course, but it was the reverse of that today with people who said hello being the exception, most totally ignored my presence, there are lots of derelict buildings, lots of offices and not exactly pleasant views, the city itself is probably lovely but passing through it by canal is not so.

Etruria Junction was my first lock with the Caldon canal escaping on the left off through Hanley and beyond.

The sun played havoc today, Etruria junction lock on right, Caldon canal on the left

It was another first for me here, before I started my life aboard I had read about a ‘handcuff’ key, also known as a ‘water conservation key’ being needed at some locks to prevent local vandals opening the paddles and draining the pounds between locks, it’s a lock on the winding gear, so I spoke to the lock keeper at Thames Lock, Brentford and asked where I could get one, he said he phoned Canal & River Trust and they said they had never heard of it! Anyway I found one in a Chandlery later and today at the first lock I had to use it.

This rather out of place looking keepsake in a modern housing complex reminded me of something.

Two pints please milkman.

And this name amused me again.

Are you sitting comfortably.

I finally got through Stoke and was back into more pleasant surroundings as I entered Hem Heath, quite a large sprawling looking town with nearly all modern houses.

This little chap had found a good spot to sun himself whilst having a think.

Where did I hide my nuts?

The last lock for today was Trentham lock, a deep lock at 11’ 11”

And then some lovely open countryside lead me to the outskirts of Barlaston where I have moored for tonight and probably tomorrow.

Tonights mooring

Totals Today: 8 miles : 6 locks

Harecastle Tunnel

It was a cold misty wakeup at 6am

I had decided to leave for the tunnel just before 8 as it wasn’t far to go and just the one lock so I had a leisurely breakfast and sorted out some things ready, life jacket (I don’t wear it often but a long tunnel with no towpath it seemed prudent), torch, open all the curtains, camera and phone in a plastic box (tunnels can be quite wet).

At about 7:45 the boat behind me headed off towards the lock, so I readied myself and cast off just before 8, when I arrived at the lock they were about half full so rather than use the duplicate lock I waited, a lady then appeared from nowhere and began to set the other lock, I had passed their boat moored up and she had walked ahead to prepare, we were both ready to leave the locks at the same time when her husband told me to go first and she would close both gates, that was very kind of them, I had met them before at Llangollen and they were helpful there as well.

Arriving at the tunnel there were already three boats waiting on the landing and so the tunnel keeper told me to wait on the offside until they had all set off before going to the entrance, one boat was reluctant to get going so I eventually moved across to the landing area and waited behind him.

Landing area, North portal ahead.

As soon as he finally went I moved into the entrance, listened to the safety chat then I turned on all the interior lights and tunnel light and off I went.

Still cannot get my camera to flash in tunnels, it’s so annoying, I tested it again last night in the boat with the lights off and it was fine, anyway here’s a poor attempt in the tunnel and one just before exiting.

Pathetic 

Doors just opened at the exit

And one looking back at the South Portal

A pleasant enough tunnel as they go, the removal of the towpath makes it quite wide, but very smokey, I think it was the first boat through with a smoking engine, the nicest thing about tunnels is coming out safely at the end into daylight again J

A few facts: The original tunnel was designed by James Brindley and opened in 1777 five years after Brindley had died, there was no towpath so ‘leggers’ were used and it took between two and three hours to get through. This caused a major bottleneck so, reluctantly, the canal company employed Thomas Telford to build a second tunnel with a towpath and this opened in 1827. The first tunnel had taken 11 years to build but the second one with improved techniques took only 3 years. Both tunnels were then used until early in the 20^th century, in 1914 Brindleys tunnel was abandoned, traffic had diminished and subsidence problems rendered it unviable. Electric tugs were used to haul boats through the remaining tunnel into the 1950’s and in 1954 forced ventilation was installed which allowed powered boats to use the tunnel, this is how it is today, subsidence caused it’s closure from 1973-1977 until refurbishment could be carried out, this included removal of the towpath.

The tunnel is 2926 yards long with varying headroom which at its lowest point can be 5’ 9” ( I did have to stoop a couple of times), Tunnel keepers operate at both ends and doors are closed to prevent anyone entering while boats are travelling in the opposite direction (they shut in you in it). It takes approximately 45 minutes to get through and if you don’t appear at the other end after 1 hour 15mins rescue procedures are put into action.

I emerged safely to bright sunlight and continued on my way, I decided to pull over at West port Lake for a cuppa and as it is quite pleasant I have decided to stay here today instead of carrying on.

Tonights Mooring

Totals Today: 2.25 miles : 1 lock : 1 tunnel

The end of the Heartbreak.....

.....well almost.

A late start today, another short cruise to a mooring in preparation for the next mini adventure, passing through Harecastle Tunnel.

I set of at 11:30 in beautiful sunshine and warm enough for just a body warmer,  hat and gloves.

The reason it’s called heartbreak hill, as told by some, is because the locks are not evenly spaced and don’t allow you to get into a rhythm, that’s one version anyway, and I can understand that, although I have broken it down into three or four stints so it hasn’t been a heartbreak for me.

The Red Bull locks were my target today just about half a mile ahead to the first of them, a pleasant little time to take in my surroundings and both the views and the locks were very pleasant, smooth easy paddles and one or two in my favour.

First Lock

Second lock ahead, too far to walk, too short to get going.

In the second lock

As I was about to enter third lock a volunteer appeared, but as I had already prepared it he just said hello and carried on walking back to the second lock.

I stopped at the services for a fill and empty and while there a boat passed me and the volunteer had walked back and so he locked them through the fourth lock, but he asked me if I was going through when I had finished filling and prepared the lock for me after they were through J

Fourth lock with hi-viz assistance.

I then continued on and passed beneath the Macclesfield Canal Aqueduct without realising it, it’s a strange layout because when heading south you go under the aqueduct and further along is the entrance to the canal on your right, it swings around and back on itself, I then went  through the fifth and last one today and moored up, one lock before the tunnel where I have been told it’s ok to moor, evidently up by the tunnel the yoof’s can be troublesome.

I got sorted and rang to book my passage through the tunnel and they said tomorrow at 8:30, so it’s an early start for me and according to the weather forecast -3 overnight so maybe a chilly one as well.

Tonights mooring

Totals today: 1.25 miles : 5 locks

Dinner without cooking, how nice.

Last night I decided to pop into the Broughton Arms for dinner just for a change,  there was a special offer on drinks, any two for a fiver, so I had two pints of Marstons Pedigree, usual price in the pub £2.90 so I saved 80p by spending another £2.10, not really saving is it, if the offer wasn’t running I might have only had the one pint J For dinner I had lamb shank, it was good, no complaints on quantity either, I could not finish it all, roast potatoes, boiled new potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli and a large Yorkshire pudding accompanied the large shank. I left the pub to walk the 500yards to the boat when a sudden downpour, absoloutely ferocious in nature, soaked me, despite me running, before I could get the doors open, it was not the correct end to the visit.

Today I have moved on again, I was going to stay another day but decided the pub might tempt me again and I didn’t fancy another soaking so instead of doing 10 locks tomorrow I have done 6 of them today and made an unplanned stop at Church Lawton.

First lock of the day (52)

This chap decided the best spot to moor was in the pound between the locks on the lock landing using the lovely bollards to tie up to, very considerate of him.

As it happens it didn’t make a lot of difference to me because the pounds between the locks are so short between the first four locks (52-49) and with no other boats about I took to walking ahead and setting the next lock as the current one was filling, so after closing the top gate behind me I was able to move straight into the next lock without stopping on the landings.

A small mishap at lock 48, oh yes I often have them, I just don’t report them all, I could see the lock on the right was empty and the gates were open, I could also see a chap apparently preparing to enter the left lock to come down, so I headed full steam ahead towards the right hand lock, discovering quite late that it was not empty, it was just no longer in use! A small sign alerted me in time to swing across and try to get on the lock landing, which was on the left, in one neat move; I misjudged it slightly and never dropped sufficient speed clouting the bank a little too hard! I had wondered why the lock on the right was empty and it looked like the vegetation at the entrance was a little overgrown; now I knew J.

Having collected myself I walked up and locked the other chap through and then went through the last two locks to moor up for today.

Having moored up I walked across the fields to look at the Church, the village is a couple of miles away and I didn't fancy walking that.

Totals today: 1.5 miles : 6 locks

A little hop forward

Yesterday was as forecast with wind and rain all day, the village of Hassall Green is very small, nothing of note there so I didn't venture out into the rain to look around.

The forecast for today was for rain later so after my normal Sunday breakfast of bacon and eggs I got myself sorted and cast off at 10:30.

It was quite warm in fact after the first two locks I was in need of removing my top coat.

The view in the distance, not quite sure where that is and it is on quite a heavy zoom so it looks more misty than it actually was.

The two Pierpoint Locks were again against me, these are single locks with a rise of 14' 6" so they didn't take too long to empty and fill. A short run then to the outskirts of Rode Heath and the first of the two Thurlwoood Locks with a rise of 19' 4", the right hand lock was empty so that was a little less effort. The difference of the view to the right and left was very obvious.

On the right of the locks older properties below canal level.

On the left new buildings above canal level

The next lock had one ground paddle and one gate paddle on the top gate, the gate paddle appeared to be leaking quite badly but after going into the lock and walking forward to open the paddles I found that the last person through had left it partially open.

The arrangement of paddles varies, sometimes you have only ground paddles, these let the water into the lock by way of a culvert which allows the water to enter the lock from the sides below the water level,

Borrowed from Wikipedia

sometimes you only have gate paddles which are, as the name implies, built into the gates themselves and the water enters the lock at a higher level often above the bow level of your boat, so care has to be taken to not flood your bow well deck, this area only has small drainage holes and so it can in turn flood the boat itself through the front doors, so care must be taken either by keeping the boat back from the gate or by only partially opening the paddles,

Gate Paddles in full flow

some locks have both and if there are both types you would open the ground paddles first to fill the lock above the gate paddle level and then you can safely fully open the gate paddles,


Rode Heath looks to be fairly recently developed with lots of newer buildings as I approached my intended overnight.

I could have carried on but the next batch of nine locks will take me to the next services and I think that will be enough for another day, I also have a bit of a sore right knee so I wanted to rest that a bit.

I have moored up just around the corner from the above picture, opposite ;'The Broughton Arms'.

The visitor moorings are in need of a little attention with most of the mooring rings missing but I managed to get a rope through the loop that remained bedded in concrete  to the stern and for the first time in forever I had to use pins at the bow, the main issue was being careful to avoid the piles of dog mess that owners had kindly left for me.

View from the side hatch.

It's actually quite a nice view but with the boat a bit low I should have taken
it from the towpath :-)

Totals Today: 2 miles : 4 locks

Another day another move

It was a cold start again with the canal covered with thin ice, I had decided as long as it wasn't raining I would move, the forecast for the next three days starting tomorrow is rain so I wanted to take advantage of a dry day today.
I set of at 10:30, it was chilly but sunny and I was quite happy, just ahead was the first lock of the day, actually most of the locks along Heartbreak Hill are duplicated so a pair of locks side by side to help speed up progress of boats, you can use either, whichever is best suited to you, so if one is empty and you are going uphill you take that one, you get the idea. Unfortunately as I am going uphill nearly all of the locks today were against me as leaks from the top gates fill the locks after a boat has gone through and with little boat traffic they stay full until I arrive and empty one of them!

First pair of 10 today

Having emptied lock 64, the third one of today, and moved into it I discovered one of the paddles on the top gate was not functioning so that was annoying and it took a while to fill. There was a notice stapled on the lock beam saying that the right hand lock ahead (63) was shut for works so it was necessary to use the left lock, I think I might have noticed.

Having tied up on the landing and walked across the road bridge to get to the left hand lock I found it was 3/4 full and I was just about to empty it when I saw a boat approaching, so I waved them ahead and filled the final bit and opened the gate for them, they were very grateful.

With locks coming thick and fast and not much worthy of a picture it was head down and keep going until I reached lock 59, the wind began to pick up and it is quite open here, I struggled a bit to get the boat onto the lock landing. Lock 58 is immediately after the M6 motorway bridge and you tie up under the motorway, so there was a bit of a respite from the wind at that point.

M6 behind me in lock 58

I was in to minds before setting off whether to stop at Hassell Green after 10 locks or continue on to Rode Heath, another 4 locks ahead, but the wind really made the decision for me,
I had just passed a gap that looked reasonable but was trying to see a bit further ahead if there was anything better and decided there wasn't so I began to reverse back into the gap, not easy even without wind but I was doing ok when the chap from the boat alongside me came out and gave me a hand, he was well aware of the wind having not long moored up himself and I was grateful for his assistance.

Tonights Mooring







Totals today: 2 miles : 10 Locks

Brrrrr......a chilly start again.

Tuesday 16^th February:

Another cold night and morning, the canal was frozen not too thick probably 8-10mm but enough to make the decision on staying put easy.

That be frozen.

A boat passed by about 10am and the noise inside my boat was quite loud, I dread to think what real thick ice would sound like.

I decided to have a walk around the town, and so once it had warmed up a bit I set off to find Tesco first and bought some provisions, after taking that back to the boat I had a wander, I have to be honest and say there was very little that I found appealing, the actual canal junction is nice and there is another huge Church and quite a few pubs and shops but generally the town looked in need of a makeover, lots of development sites that look to have been empty for some time and ‘The Narrowboat’ pub in the town appeared to be closed down, it all looked a bit run down.

Just three pictures.

The High Street

On the way back to the boat I stopped in the Chandlers and bought a new chimney for next winter, the current one is rusting away and I think it will fall apart when I take it down, some door rope, glue and blacking for the stove, it needs to be cheered up a bit.

Yesterday was wet, all day just continuous miserable rain, I stayed put again.

Today I set off at 10:30, I have 31 locks over the next 13 miles, most of which are on the section known to boaters as Heartbreak Hill, no doubt I’ll find out why when I get started on that.

After going through Wardle Lock the last of the locks (or first) on the Middlewich branch I needed to do a sharp turn right onto the Trent and Mersey canal and as it was a blind exit for me I gave a long blast on the horn not expecting anything to be there, but there was a boat just about to turn in, he managed to quickly reverse out of my way, and said ‘that got my attention’, well that was what it was meant to do so I was glad I did it.

Into Kings Lock with the pub of the same name alongside

The Canal at this point is very wide a strange feeling after the narrows of the last few months.

The Pub opposite Rumps lock looks like being turned into a private residence.

The A533 runs alongside the canal and it does nothing to enhance your passage, it's noisy and on the right to begin with then crossing the canal to be on your left, it’s not until you get to the third of the Booth Lane locks that you leave the road behind and find a more rural curving landscape but there is a lot of housing being built, the cruise was ok, the weather was kind, but not the most picturesque of landscapes.

Passing beneath the Crewe to Manchester railway at Ettily Heath.

I pulled over and moored up at the Wheelock visitor moorings as just ahead is the first of the next 10 locks that I think I will do in one go.

Tonights mooring

Totals Today: 6 miles : 6 locks